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Jolie Madame

Balmain · Eau de Toilette (EDT) · 1953

Woody · Mossy Woody (Chypre)Designerfeminine

≈ $75 · 50ml · approx. retail

Official Balmain site

Germaine Cellier's 1953 Jolie Madame is regarded as one of the finest leather chypres ever composed, marrying smoky, animalic leather with tender violet and a soft floral heart. It set the template for the leather-floral genre and is still cited by perfumers as a masterclass in contrast and restraint.

Leather Floral Animalic Green

The scent

Top notes

The opening · first 15 minutes

Artemisia (Wormwood)Coriander Gardenia Bergamot Neroli Petitgrain Clove

Heart notes

The core · the next few hours

Violet Leaf Narcissus Iris / Orris Rose Tuberose Jasmine Lilac Orange Blossom

Base notes

The dry-down · what lingers

Leather Oakmoss Vetiver Tobacco Civet Patchouli Musk Cedar

Best for

FallWinterEveningSpecial Occasion

Perfumer

Germaine Cellier

4 in collection

See their fragrances →

Dupes & cheaper alternatives

Cheaper clones and alternatives that share the same notes and accords — savings are flagged.

Passion

Elizabeth Taylor · Amber

≈ $27save ~$48

Shares Coriander, Gardenia, Artemisia (Wormwood)

Polo (original)

Ralph Lauren · Woody

≈ $68save ~$7

Shares Artemisia (Wormwood), Coriander, Bergamot

Polo

Polo

Ralph Lauren · Woody

≈ $45save ~$30

Shares Artemisia (Wormwood), Coriander, Bergamot

Anaïs Anaïs

Cacharel · Floral

≈ $28save ~$47

Shares Orange Blossom, Bergamot, Jasmine

Cerruti 1881 Pour Femme

Cerruti · Floral

≈ $35save ~$40

Shares Iris / Orris, Rose, Jasmine

Jardins De Bagatelle

Jardins De Bagatelle

Guerlain · Floral

Shares Jasmine, Bergamot, Tuberose